The Jungle Blog

It began with a light sprinkle last night. Previously, it was overcast, chilly and dreary. We were disappointed - La Paz is supposed to be one of the hottest locations year-round in Mexico and is generously loaded with gorgeous beaches nearby - but it has been gloomy and moody the whole time we´ve been here! Then, after a meal of Sushi (futomaki with cream cheese... was a new one for me) and Jay of Teriyaki, we came back in a sprinkling, and overnight it progressed into a full-on downpour! I mean, this is the desert, right? Is this normal?

All night long, rain shredded over the tin roof of our hostel, and I thanked my foresight and my earplugs. Waking up at 7:30 I became concerned, as the rain had not stopped but almost seemed to get worse, that life here would stop as it would in say, Vegas, and we wouldn´t be able to purchase our Ferry Tickets for tomorrow. I was also concerned that the nearby Taco stand wouldn´t be open, as they serve possibly the best grilled fish tacos that I´ve ever had! So, imagine my relief that not only was the stand open, but life seemed to be continuing at a regular, if not wetter pace.

We got on the bus this morning as our hotel innkeeper advised us of three busses that would take us to the ferry ticket office, and we missed the stop - an hour and an interesting tour of greater La Paz later, we arrived (this was a 15 minute walk). After purchasing our relatively expensive Ferry tickets (About 100CDN a person with a shared cabin/no bathroom), we walked to the museum, and stopped for a really delicious pizza. The museum of Baja history was very cool, they had fossil horse, mammoth and clams that would give Dad real Shell Envy, not to mention rifles of military men and an informative description of early California life. Later, we walked to the promenade (Malecon in Spanish), and got a little bored, so we came back to the hostel.

Because of the weather, we´ve been following this trend for the last couple of days. Jay took a 3 hour siesta yesterday and slept the whole time, I´ve already finished my first book and am a quarter through the second (The Mosquito Coast by Paul Theroux). I checked the weather underground though, and we should have decent weather in Mazatlan, though. I hope.

Despite everything, though, we had a great night tonight. We left the hostel at around 6, and as luck had it there was a sunset, and it was so stunning, even though we were a little late for the whole show. We walked over to some of the beachside (turista) restaurants, but after the big bite out of our wallets from the ferry we shied away and instead went to the Local´s joint a few blocks up from the beach, where we shared a huge plate of chicken fajitas and a strawberry/banana licuado, which is like a light smoothie, for a total of 100 pesos. We then continued to a great coffee shop on Cinqo de Mayo street called 5th and Avenida, and I had the world´s best Black Forest Cake Mochaccino and whupped Jay´s butt at cards (my 80 cents score was 2 compared to his 137!). Tomorrow we leave the peninsula for the mainland at 3:30, an 18 hour ferry to Mazatlan, and while I have greatly enjoyed the Baja (every town has been gorgeous, the people friendly and the experiences beyond memorable), I am eager for good weather and as my new German-Mexican friend Stephanie has dubbed, Real Mexico.

By the way, Dad, please check outhttp://www.landsendrealty.com , Baja may be perfect for you guys! Whales, dolphins, birds, fossils, cleanliness and I´ve heard the weather is usually fantastic (and apparently hot as well).

Love Tess

Wow, im never going to get used to those bus rides. This one was a 5 hour trip from Loreto to La Paz but it felt much longer

Anyways, onto the talk about the glorious sun filled and sweltering hot days that everyone says is La Paz...right. It´s been overcast and cold since we left San Ignacio. And right now it is raining!!! and has be raining for the last 4 hours. Knowing that is 30 degrees in Mazatlan right now aint helping much either. But it isn´t all bad...our rooms are small prision cells with the shower 1 foot to the right of the sink which is 1 foot to the right of the toilet...hmmmm. It´ll get better

When the rain finally stops tomorrow, we got plans to go see the musuem and pick up our ferry tickets to Mazatlan. Whooooo whoooo......the Oilers just scored 2 goals in the last 30 seconds!!! Im listening to the Oiler vs Anahiem game online right now.

On the plus side, the city of La Paz is a wonderful city and very pleasent to stroll through, I´d imagine it would be even better in the sun. We´ll see what tomorow brings. For now, were dreaming of the mainland and the 30 degrees in Mazatlan!

Until next time,

Jay

So. It´s day 11. A week and a half since we left home. Not ready to come back yet...

Today we spent the day in Loreto, but I´ll get to that in a second. YESTERDAY, we woke up after one of the biggest storms I think we´ll experience on this trip, unless we encounter a hurricane, which I think this nearly compared to. When you are sleeping in a yurt with a tent-like roof, you really notice it too. Cold, and windy with a capital WINDY. Palms roaring every which was, and it was chilly enough that we had the heater aimed at our faces with the sheets pulled over our heads all night. Not the most pleasant of evenings.

After a delicious morning at the San Ignacio Springs, we had plans to go to the bus stop to purchase our ticket to Loreto. However, just as we were clearing up our bill with Gary the owner, John (sorry if it´s not John, I´m much better with faces!) and Gwen, a lovely Canadian couple from Sault St. Marie who we had gotten to know over the last couple of days offered to drive us to Mulege so we would save a few dollars on the bus. We accepted their considerate offer and we all jumped into their van, our seats in the back being two appropriately placed lawn chairs (fun!).

The four of us proceeded to stop in Santa Rosalia, where they boast French style wooden buildings, an Eiffel Church, and one of Baja´s best bakeries. At the bakery we ordered a couple of Pan Dulces, which are sweetbreads shaped like cinnamon buns. Muy delicioso! After an hour or so of site-seeing we continued on to Mulege.

The drive from Santa Rosalia to Mulege is absolutely breathtaking. Right before the lesser townsite the scenery changes from cacti and desert to the Sea of Cortez, which must be one of the most beautiful seas, there are islands in the distance and the coast is rocky in some areas and soft and sandy in others, and pelicans coast and dive across all fronts. Shades of blue and grey coast from far off distances keep you absolutely captivated. I was quite content to sit in the vehicle and marvel for the hour and a half before we reached Mulege.

Upon reaching Mulege we originally planned to stay the evening in the same motel as our new friends, but had an attack of conscience and decided that it wouldn´t be fair to have them feel obligated to continue driving us around, so we parted ways and got on the 4 o clock bus to Loreto, where we watched a spanish-dubbed "The Craft" and fell asleep. In Loreto we went to the number one listed motel in the Let´s Go guide we´re using, got the best suite in the place at 260 pesos, and immediately realized that the place had slid quite a ways downhill since the guide was written in 2005. How far? Let me count the ways:

1. The guide mentioned well equipped kitchenettes. Well, there was a sink, and a hood fan where a stove used to be, but nothing else.
2. A bed that squeaks like a mouse on speed and sinks half a foot in the middle is not the best sleep, not to mention sheets that are too small for the bed.
3. Are shower heads supposed to fall out of the wall?
4. Although I don´t mind taking a shower under a hose-like spray, I always thought a hot shower meant hot, not just above freezing.
5. I thought doors were an old innovation. It was a novel experience having a shower curtain divide the bathroom from the bedroom.
6. I´m not sure if bugs are supposed to crawl out of sink handles.

I guess it wasn´t all bad. They had a colour tv, the location was decent and the woman who maintained the place was very nice. However, don´t be too surprised but we checked out this morning.

We found a new place right on the main stretch. The Hotel Junipero, it´s slighty more expensive at 350 pesos but infinately nicer and in a better location. Today we had a very pleasant day walking up and down the clean beautiful streets, checking out artisan shops and strolling alongside the beach. A black lab with a slight touch of mange adopted us for a couple of hours, Jay had his first Donkey burrito (three, actually), and Dad, if you want nice oceanfront lots this is the place to get it. The beach is no Cancun, but stunning views, pelicans EVERYWHERE, the town is lovely, safe, and the prices for property are quite decent, not to mention there is an airport right nearby. We saw a sunset tonight so we hope the morning will be nice, we´re going to have breakfast at the taco stand McLulu´s before catching the 12:05 bus to La Paz, a journey that will take approx. 5 hours. Hasta Luego!

By the way, don´t forget to check out http://www.flickr.com/photos/tessarex for more pictures

Love Tess

Hola,

So right now we're in San Ignacio, right in the middle of the baja. You'd think it would ridiculously warm here but for reason today just got chilly and windy. Not a cloud in the sky and super hot in the sun but without that sun...yikes, a winter jacket might have helped. Aside from the cold nights, this place has been amazing. The Yurts that we're staying in are soo cool and cozy and we definitely recommend then to the parents. We'll bring back pictures of the interior. I'd post them right now but Tess has taken it upon herself to unpack everything from her bag and place it on every available flat space...floor included

So after our amazing whale watching/petting experience in Guerrero Negro we figured that it would probably be a while until our next really cool experience...we were wrong. At breakfast yesterday we happened to have met a mother and daughter who were travelling the baja as well. They are originally from Germany but have since moved to Mexico City because the husband/father is a journalist. They had rented a vehicle and were heading to see the cave paintings which were about a two hour drive through the desert backcountry roads around the Sierra de SanFransico (mountains). Chad...were bringing your Jeep down here sometime in the near future, you can figure out why. A couple of spare tires may come in handy though Anyways, after having an absolutely huge breasfast together they invited Tess and I to come with them. Sooo nice. The drive was awesome and the hour hike up the mountain was even cooler. It wouldn't have been the same without the 6'0" tall 100 pound Mexican cowboy as a guide, haha. Anywhooo, we ended up seeing cave paintings that were over 4000 years old and nearly 30 feet high. Unbelievable sight! The kicker to the trek was the crazy Cactus that jumped out of nowhere and chased me down the hill, haha. On the way down I lost my footing for a second and swung my hand out right onto a cactus, those suckers hurt and the needles were in deep enough that when I pulled my hand away, and entire cactus head came right along with me. Fun times We also had a giant supper last night. But after finding out that costed us $15 each we are settling for Bologne sandwiches tonight.

So after the journey yesterday, we just decided to relax by the river today. We suntanned, played cards, and fished!!! Both Tess and I caught fish. Catch and release of course Don't let the picture of me and the fish fool you. That was the smallest one. Both of us caught some biggies!

Tomorrow...on too......havent decided yet. Maybe Melege, maybe Loreto. We'll sleep on it.

Pictures should be posted within the next couple of days.

Until next time,

Jay

So, we haven't been able to get a hold of a computer in the last few days, which explains our recent poor track record of written wisdom. But, I'll recap:

We bussed it out of Tijuana (aka 'the slums') and booked it to Ensenada as soon as we found a place to exchange our Canadian coins, which we unwisely thought would be an easy thing to do. No such doing. By the hand of G-d we turned a corner (after being rejected from several moneylenders and 3 major banks) and discovered a ScotiaBank, smack dab in the middle of a busy Tijuana road. Salvation! We exchanged at a semi decent rate at 8.73 pesos to the dollar, which compared to the measly 6.5 we were offered by the only other canadian moneychanger was like striking gold. Then faster than you can say "Tiju-what?" we were outta there.

We stayed with another couchsurfer in Ensenada. Her name is Gloria, and she was a hilarious (and very short) filipino woman with 2 adorable cocker spanials. In the morning we took a local bus (converted short school bus) to the downtown area. We asked an English speaking man on the bus where the best fish tacos were (since we hear that's the Ensenada specialty) and he had us get off at a stop nearby the downtown core and pointed to a roadside stand before welcoming us and parting on his way. We crossed the street and with my meager handling of Spanish ordered "dos tacos pescados". 2 dollars later, we did indeed have absolutely delicious deep-fried golden battered fish tacos wrapped in a corn shell. Jay needed another and some water, and we continued to the port.

Ensenada has a few nice roads and many not so nice roads, however we were grateful that we weren´t in Tijuana so it wasn't a big deal. The main tourist stretch definately reminded me of Mom, there were so many nice furniture stores and silver shops. It definately catered to rich gringos off the cruise ships, rather than the crap offered to the boisterous college students that'd frequent Tijuana. We walked along red brick sidewalks and admired things we could definately not afford ourselves.

Another point, this is definately not tourist season. There was maybe 1 other non Spanish Family in the whole city (that we saw, at least). Walking along the empty port boardwalk, we felt a little lucky that we had a chance to feel relaxed while here, instead of constantly forced to follow with a crowd and be on a rigid schedule. I mean, we ARE on some sort of schedule, but it´s self-induced.

After a pleasant boat tour of Todos Santos Bay (where we saw the ship where "Titanic" was filmed and many boats and sea lions), we bought our tickets to Guerrero Negro and went back to Gloria´s place to pack.

Yesterday, (the next day), we got to the bus station, boarded, and proceeded to spend the next 8 1/2 hours riding down Baja towards Guerrero Negro. 8 1/2 stomach turning hours. The roads are poorly maintained and dipped up and down, up and down. Jay, feeling even more sick than I, had to keep sleeping so he wouldn't upchuck. I felt 'slightly' better, and was able to watch the amazing scenery which graced the countryside. Cacti of all shapes and sizes, and some of the most beautiful hills, ravines and canyons that I may ever see. Next time we'll drive it though, and take our time. It was a Loooooong trip.

We are staying in a motel called Las Dunas, and initially we were nervous because it's the cheapest place in town and wasn't listed on the books. However, it's plenty fine, with tiled floors and a private bathroom with hot water. Clean, and they give complimentary bottled water too. For $20, you can't complain.

This morning we had a scare, in which we couldn't find Marios restaurant to hop on board for our whalewatching tour. Things turned out ok in the end, for they showed up at their office which was right beside our hotel. And boy o boy, was THAT worth the price of admission.

Have you ever touched a wild grey whale? Jay and I have... they are so curious, and they stare at you from under the water and their massive bodies glide out from under the boat and disappear and reappear from nothing. And they are SO large and so beautiful, for three hours you stand, queasy, ripping from boatside to boatside for the chance to see them spout and raise up out of the water, barnacles gripping over the bodies and scratches on their tails. Absolutely one of the most awe-inspiring experiences of my life. They call them the friendly ones here, although I'd rename them the Teases, they were always getting SO close to the boat and as soon as you reached out to touch them they'd flip away. We got lucky, as there was only one other man on our boat (another canadian by coincidence), and the other boat on the water didn't get a chance to touch the whales. In my case, a tail almost whipped me in the face and I reached out my hands and ran it on the tip before it realized it got too close. Imagine a soft, wet rubber tire.

The rest of the day has been chilling, doing laundry, and feeling content that we may have just had the experience of a lifetime.

Love Tess..

San Diego was sweet....Tijuana, umm not so sweet. Yesterday we spent the morning and early afternoon at the zoo. There was soo much to see and it was all amazing. There were about a dozen giant tortises each over 80 years old and weighting over 700 pounds. The Orangutangs were funny, they tried hiding themselves under broken palm leaves. It was kinda like a 2 year old covering there eyes in hopes that you can't see them becuase they can't see you. It was awesome. And then we saw a giant 350 pound Silverback Gorilla backhand the glass where a guy was taking pictures of it, as if to say "get the hell outta here while i'm still in a good mood"

After the zoo we walked all the way to downtown, had a great dinner, walked through an open-air mall (they get no rain here so everything is open-air, even the schools), and then went to a wicked Reggae concert that we managed to get free tickets too from a Hostelling International guy. Pictures and a small video will be posted some time soon. It was a perfect weekend to start the trip...and were under budget!!!

So now were in Tijuana...grrrrr. We've been here for about 2 hours now and I would have been happy leaving after 10 minutes. Tess did manage to bargain her way down half price for a shirt. That was fairly exciting. The street pedlers that bombard you every 15 seconds to buy cheap jewelery, $1.00 beers or something called a "Scooby-doo". (I definitely didn't wanna find out what that was) has lost its luster. It's interesting when McDonalds is the only establishment you trust...haha. Anyways, we are now heading to catch a bus to Ensenada. A much more lovely Mexican town I hear.

Until next time,

Jay

ps.

Check out http://www.flickr.com/photos/tessarex/ for more of the photos that we've taken and will be taking.

We woke up at a quarter to 5, after 3 1/2 hours sleep. Fully, completely awake. Mom and Dad drove me to the airport, and there we met Jay and his entourage (His Mom, Dad, Brother Chad, Brother's girlfriend Whitney and Nicky, the dog) at the check-in. After tearful goodbyes we slipped through the gates and had a seamless check-in. Interesting to note: they make you take off your shoes now at the security check.

Napping on airplanes is convenient and fun, and I took half the flight off and woke up with half an hour to go. We hung out in the San Fransisco airport and played games on the long moving sidewalks until our delay finished. An hour and a half later we were in San Diego.

I won't recap all of it, but our hostess Cynthia is amazing. She drove us all around town and showed us the sites, took us to a tasty restaurant for lunch, and has an extremely nice apartment. Both Jay and I felt a little queasy after lunch, and I'm attributing it to our sensitive northern sterile food-friendly tummies. I'm all better now, but Jay had us pull the car off to the side of the road so he could 'get a better view of the grass'.

Highlight of the day: Finding a baby starfish at the edge of a tidal pool by the Cabrillo National Monument.

Tomorrow: Zooooooo!!!!

Love Tess

Ok, so we haven't exactly planned out this whole trip yet. But we do have a pretty good idea of where we'll be for the first 2 months. The 2 months after that will be planned when we're there. O yes, the further along this trip gets, the more I move into SPIDER territory. Just thought I'd let you know... Anyways, have a looksee. You can use the nav buttons in the top right corner of the map to zoom in or you can click on each location and it will take you to any blog entries we have for it...I think.

Jay

Ok, so the trip hasn't started yet. We're still 3 days away and it's coming quick. I think all the big things are done and now all that's left is the small junk, like figuring out what to wear. So really all I'm posting for is to let anyone looking at our blog know that the wicked travel map will be up shortly...its a long trip...and Tess and I will begin posting entries sometime after we arrive in San Diego. Anyways, feel free to comment as often as you like. Just click on the word "comment" just below any entry and voila! We'll definitely be keeping in touch. Also, if you are "the parents" and need to contact us by email then...

Jay: jayaby@gmail.com
or
Tess: tess.owen@gmail.com

O yah, and feel free to send money anytime

Until next time.

Jay