Buenas Tardes from Guerrero Negro

So, we haven't been able to get a hold of a computer in the last few days, which explains our recent poor track record of written wisdom. But, I'll recap:

We bussed it out of Tijuana (aka 'the slums') and booked it to Ensenada as soon as we found a place to exchange our Canadian coins, which we unwisely thought would be an easy thing to do. No such doing. By the hand of G-d we turned a corner (after being rejected from several moneylenders and 3 major banks) and discovered a ScotiaBank, smack dab in the middle of a busy Tijuana road. Salvation! We exchanged at a semi decent rate at 8.73 pesos to the dollar, which compared to the measly 6.5 we were offered by the only other canadian moneychanger was like striking gold. Then faster than you can say "Tiju-what?" we were outta there.

We stayed with another couchsurfer in Ensenada. Her name is Gloria, and she was a hilarious (and very short) filipino woman with 2 adorable cocker spanials. In the morning we took a local bus (converted short school bus) to the downtown area. We asked an English speaking man on the bus where the best fish tacos were (since we hear that's the Ensenada specialty) and he had us get off at a stop nearby the downtown core and pointed to a roadside stand before welcoming us and parting on his way. We crossed the street and with my meager handling of Spanish ordered "dos tacos pescados". 2 dollars later, we did indeed have absolutely delicious deep-fried golden battered fish tacos wrapped in a corn shell. Jay needed another and some water, and we continued to the port.

Ensenada has a few nice roads and many not so nice roads, however we were grateful that we weren´t in Tijuana so it wasn't a big deal. The main tourist stretch definately reminded me of Mom, there were so many nice furniture stores and silver shops. It definately catered to rich gringos off the cruise ships, rather than the crap offered to the boisterous college students that'd frequent Tijuana. We walked along red brick sidewalks and admired things we could definately not afford ourselves.

Another point, this is definately not tourist season. There was maybe 1 other non Spanish Family in the whole city (that we saw, at least). Walking along the empty port boardwalk, we felt a little lucky that we had a chance to feel relaxed while here, instead of constantly forced to follow with a crowd and be on a rigid schedule. I mean, we ARE on some sort of schedule, but it´s self-induced.

After a pleasant boat tour of Todos Santos Bay (where we saw the ship where "Titanic" was filmed and many boats and sea lions), we bought our tickets to Guerrero Negro and went back to Gloria´s place to pack.

Yesterday, (the next day), we got to the bus station, boarded, and proceeded to spend the next 8 1/2 hours riding down Baja towards Guerrero Negro. 8 1/2 stomach turning hours. The roads are poorly maintained and dipped up and down, up and down. Jay, feeling even more sick than I, had to keep sleeping so he wouldn't upchuck. I felt 'slightly' better, and was able to watch the amazing scenery which graced the countryside. Cacti of all shapes and sizes, and some of the most beautiful hills, ravines and canyons that I may ever see. Next time we'll drive it though, and take our time. It was a Loooooong trip.

We are staying in a motel called Las Dunas, and initially we were nervous because it's the cheapest place in town and wasn't listed on the books. However, it's plenty fine, with tiled floors and a private bathroom with hot water. Clean, and they give complimentary bottled water too. For $20, you can't complain.

This morning we had a scare, in which we couldn't find Marios restaurant to hop on board for our whalewatching tour. Things turned out ok in the end, for they showed up at their office which was right beside our hotel. And boy o boy, was THAT worth the price of admission.

Have you ever touched a wild grey whale? Jay and I have... they are so curious, and they stare at you from under the water and their massive bodies glide out from under the boat and disappear and reappear from nothing. And they are SO large and so beautiful, for three hours you stand, queasy, ripping from boatside to boatside for the chance to see them spout and raise up out of the water, barnacles gripping over the bodies and scratches on their tails. Absolutely one of the most awe-inspiring experiences of my life. They call them the friendly ones here, although I'd rename them the Teases, they were always getting SO close to the boat and as soon as you reached out to touch them they'd flip away. We got lucky, as there was only one other man on our boat (another canadian by coincidence), and the other boat on the water didn't get a chance to touch the whales. In my case, a tail almost whipped me in the face and I reached out my hands and ran it on the tip before it realized it got too close. Imagine a soft, wet rubber tire.

The rest of the day has been chilling, doing laundry, and feeling content that we may have just had the experience of a lifetime.

Love Tess..